By Conrad Prabhu
Pictures by Abdullah Ibrahim al Shuhi
Misfat al Abriyeen, (familiar as 'Misfah' to the legions of Muscat-based tourists who come visiting every year) is a secluded world of its own. Hidden away in the foothills of the Hajar mountains, this remote settlement is an idyll quite unlike any other in Oman. Tourists who have been smitten by its extraordinary beauty return time and again to savour its unspoiled charm. Misfah is one of Al Hamra wilayat's finest tourist attractions, alongside Jabal Shams — the ultimate escape for the inveterate adventure-seeker. Once accessible only to hardy off-roaders, a new road now makes the ride to this popular getaway a breeze. Lay-bys along the route offer panoramic views of the oasis town of Al Hamra, nestling in the shadow of Jabal Shams. The five kilometre long blacktop careens roller coaster-style along the undulating landscape and brings you right to Misfah's doorstep. Awaiting visitors is a truly breathtaking sight. Clinging precipitously to the edge of a gorge is a jumble of stone-and-mud houses with terraced date palm gardens cascading all the way down to the bottom. Indeed, this cliff-side settlement, set amid the harsh magnificence of the surrounding mountains, has all the elements of a picture postcard setting. One of the gates that leads to the old neighbourhood A project to preserve Misfah's old-worldly ambience Panoramic view of Misfah and its date palm heritage For panoramic views of Misfah, visitors make the short ride to the hilltop on the other side of the gorge. It's a popular viewpoint for those who wish to simply sit and take in the splendour of this secluded mountain hamlet. Trekkers can explore the surrounding countryside by using a well-charted 'walking path' along the rim of the gorge. A boulder-strewn hillside has been transformed by Misfah's resilient community into a quaint mountain village. A unique feature is its multi-storey structures built in a tight huddle and hugging the sheer rock face. But it's Misfah's solitary, yet bountiful, mountain spring that has been at the heart of its secluded existence for many centuries, drawing its inhabitants to this otherwise grim and inhospitable corner of the Hajar mountains. The spring emerges from somewhere near the summit of Misfah's hilltop abode, and is channelled by an ingenious system of conduits that nourishes date palm trees growing on terraced gardens hewn along the edge of the mountain. The water courses through hundreds of these terraces, each barely a few square metres in size. The result is a verdant cascade of vegetation along this otherwise barren mountain slope. Banana and lemon trees flourish amid this lush growth. As the only natural water source for miles around, Misfah has been a prize coveted by outsiders over the centuries. The remnants of an ancient watchtower, believed to be of pre-Islamic vintage, can be seen on a hilltop overlooking the hamlet — evidence of the defensive measures taken by the mountain residents to ward off invaders covetous of its precious spring.
Misfah's unspoiled charm is evident in its quaint passageways Traditional water pots hang in the window of a dwelling Misfah attracts thousands of tourists every year The hamlet itself invites discovery. Narrow passageways meander through the settlement, once guarded by fortified gateways. Modernity is gradually encroaching upon this idyllic setting. Overhead electric cables snake along the passageways, while air-conditioning units incongruously peek out of niches in the mud walls of homes. Many of the dwellings have been abandoned for the safety of more modern homes, equipped with all amenities, on the outskirts of the settlement or on hilltops overlooking Misfah. Given its importance to tourism, the local authorities will shortly embark on a project aimed at preserving Misfah's unspoiled charms. According to Sulaiman bin Soud al Jabri, Wali of Al Hamra, the remote settlement will benefit from new sewerage and power supply systems, which will be introduced in a manner that will not mar its old-worldly ambience. The architectural splendour of the old stone houses will be preserved as well. New initiatives are also underway to draw tourists to some of Al Hamra's lesser-known attractions. Targeted as a hot, new destination in the wilayat is Wadi Ghul, touted as place of potential interest to nature-lovers and adventure buffs. Also of interest is an old mud-and-stone neighbourhood and a crumbling watchtower believed to date back to Persian times. To get to Wadi Ghul, take a left turn at the intersection just before approaching Al Hamra and drive for about 32 km. A sign points you in the direction of Wadi Ghul and Wadi Nakhr, an equally exciting getaway. A new tarmac road now enables convenient access from Wadi Ghul to Jabal Shams, which will be highlighted as part of the Observer spotlight on the Interior Region.
Refrence:Prabhu,Conrad."Picture postcard Misfah."Last update:15th October 2003.http:www.newsbriefsoman.inf/features/misfah.htm.Information found:27 October 2004.