OFTEN hailed as the Sultanate's own version of the Grand Canyon, Jabal Shams' special appeal lies in the magnificent grandeur of its rugged profiles and precipitous gorges. This celebrated landmark in Al Hamra wilayat is also every geologist's delight, its rugged landscape home to a rich natural history. For many adventure-minded Muscat-based residents, Jabal Shams offers the opportunity of an easy escape to the beautiful outdoors of Oman. Getting to this popular tourist destination is now a cinch thanks to excellent road links from either Nizwa or Bahla. If you're driving from Nizwa towards Bahla, turn left at the Shell filling station (44km from Nizwa) to head in the direction of Jabal Shams. It's another 34km to the summit, a ride made possible by a new blacktop being laid in phases. The road initially follows the twisting course of the scenic Wadi Ghul dotted by pockets of idyllic charm. The route skirts the abandoned hilltop settlement of Ghul — a cluster of stone dwellings overlooking a swathe of date farms and gardens. These homes have since been abandoned for the comfort of more modern dwellings built on a ridge on the other side of the wadi. Remnants of an ancient stone fortification, believed to be of pre-Islamic vintage, attest to Ghul's great antiquity. Rugs made by weavers from Jabal Shams are prized for their bright colours and designs Ghul nestles at the confluence of two major wadis — Wadi Nakhr and Wadi Ghul — which merge to form the often-ferocious Wadi Ghul channelling much of the runoff out of Jabal Shams in the aftermath of a downpour. On a sunny day, the wadi's rich heritage of acacia trees, and the odd ghaf tree as well, makes for ideal campsites amid the solitude of the surrounding landscape. Humaid bin Salim al Khatri, a representative from the office of the Wali of Al Hamra, poses at the edge of the ‘Grand Canyon’.
For the action-minded, there is the opportunity of an invigorating trek along mountain ridges that offer breathtaking views of Wadi Nakhr, also referred to as the Grand Canyon. Trekking Path W6a is one of several well-marked walking routes charted by the Directorate-General of Tourism in the Interior region. These are for the benefit of hikers looking to explore the Sultanate's great outdoors on foot. W6a offers hikers the opportunity of a 6km ramble from Wadi Nakhr to the summit of Jabal Shams, with the chance to explore two abandoned villages en route. Walking time is around three hours one-way. At one point the road leaves the wadi and cuts a twisting swathe through the rugged terrain, skirting small hamlets en route. Work is still under way on a 10km stretch to the summit, a rocky plateau that offers unparalleled views of Wadi Nakhr and its splendid gorge. Tourists come here to camp out on this windswept plateau or simply to contemplate the awesome presence of nature as reflected in the landscape of mighty massifs and plunging ravines. At 3009 metres above sea level — the highest point in Oman — the plateau is no place for the faint-hearted. Steel railings now allow visitors to peer over the edge of the gorge for spectacular views of tiny hamlets and date palm gardens on the floor of the wadi. Jabal Shams has become a magnet for overnight campers happy to settle in under a canopy of stars. But visitors uneasy about roughing it out can approach the Camping & Travelling Centre, a motel built by the tourism authorities not far from the plateau. It consists of a cluster of well-equipped rooms and open-air shelters to suit all manner of campers. While on a tour of Jabal Shams, a visit to one of many stone settlements located close to the summit can be rewarding. Al Khutaym nestles on the edge of Wadi Nakhr with its handful of residents enjoying spectacular views of the gorge year-round. Tourists are greeted by children displaying a colourful variety of traditional rugs, sandals and key chains all made from goat hair.
The picturesque stone settlement of Ghul These make wonderful souvenirs to take home while also helping augment the incomes of these small mountain communities whose main livelihood is goat-herding. A bright-coloured rug sells for RO 6 apiece, a pair of sandals for RO 2, and a key chain for RO 1. The colours are derived naturally from shrubs and plants unique to Jabal Shams. In fact, weaving is an important cottage industry involving much of the adult community in these rugged parts. At Dar al Uquf, a tiny hamlet tucked away beneath a rocky outcrop, rug weaving is something of a collective enterprise bringing together families and neighbours who try to bring synergy to their trade. Weaving is an important craft in mountain settlements around Jabal Shams Ali bin Obaid al Khatri is a veteran rug-weaver who has represented the Sultanate at international heritage expos, as well as taken part in local exhibitions throughout the country. His products, like that of other weavers from Jabal Shams, are coveted by tourists for their vibrant colours and intricate geometric and floral designs. Weaving methods are still rudimentary with rug-makers following a technique that's been in vogue for many centuries. Two weavers sit on opposite sides of two wooden sticks whose distance from each other determines the length of the rug under development. They toss a ball of yarn at each other, each time weaving it around the stick. Spinning goat hair into balls of yarn is mainly the work of the womenfolk, while the men usually focus on the weaving part. A two-metre-long rug can take up to four days to complete, says Al Khatri. Unlike many other traditional crafts which the government is striving to keep alive in the face of modernity's onslaught, rug-weaving is unlikely to fade away in these parts. Children as young as six years join their parents in the trade after school hours. They either actively participate in the weaving exercise or offer the finished merchandise to passing tourists. Aside from goat-herding, limited natural water sources also allow for the cultivation of onion, garlic, pomegranate, apricots and wheat on small terraced gardens around Jabal Shams.
Refrence:Prabhu,Conrad."Jabal Shams ."Last update:28th October2003.http://www.newsbriefsoman.inf/features/jabal_shams.htm.Information found:27 October 2004.